North Devon isn’t just a place; it’s a feeling. It’s the salty air, the cry of gulls, and the vast, shifting sands of the Taw and Torridge Estuary. While driving these coastal roads can be stressful, there is a far better way to soak up the scenery without keeping your eyes on the tarmac.
Enter North Devon Wave 21A, operated by Stagecoach South West.
Part of the popular “Wave” network, the 21A is more than just a commute—it’s a front-row seat to one of England’s most beautiful coastal landscapes. Connecting the bustling historic market town of Barnstaple with the quaint, pastel-coloured fishing village of Appledore, this route offers a perfect slice of Devon life.
Whether you are a local looking for a relaxed day out or a visitor wanting to explore without a car, here is everything you need to know about the 21A.
What makes this route special
The 21A is the “estuary explorer” of the North Devon bus network. Unlike routes that stick to inland highways, the 21A hugs the water for much of its journey. Because Stagecoach largely operates double-deckers on this route, you get an elevated vantage point that cars simply cannot match.
From the top deck, you can peer over hedgerows to see the tide filling the river, spot wading birds on the mudflats, and get a bird’s-eye view of the historic Bideford Long Bridge. It is a journey that connects bustling commerce, quiet beaches, and maritime heritage in under an hour.
The journey: A route breakdown
The 21A serves a string of fascinating communities, each with its own character. Here is what you can expect as you travel from Barnstaple to the coast.
Barnstaple: The historic hub
Your journey begins in Barnstaple, the oldest borough in the UK. Before you hop on the bus at the station, you might want to wander through the famous Pannier Market or grab a coffee on Butcher’s Row. As the bus pulls out, you’ll head towards the river, leaving the town centre behind for the open views of the Taw Estuary.
Bickington, Fremington and Yelland
As the bus heads west, you pass through Bickington and Fremington. Keep your eyes peeled here—Fremington Quay was once a busy port, and the Tarka Trail (a famous walking and cycling path) runs parallel to the road. Passing through Yelland, you start to get your first real sense of the coast approaching as the river widens significantly.
Instow: The beach stop
This is a highlight for many passengers. Instow is the only place on the route where you can hop off and be on a sandy beach in seconds. The bus stops along Anstey Way, offering glorious views across the water to Appledore (your final destination). It is a fantastic spot to watch the sun go down or grab an ice cream.
Bideford: The Little White Town
Crossing the Torridge Bridge offers spectacular high-level views, but the real treat is rolling along the Quay in Bideford. The bus runs right alongside the river, past the statue of Tarka the Otter and the medieval Long Bridge. It is a bustling, working town with a rich maritime history.
Northam and the split
The bus climbs up to Northam and passing Orchard Hill. This is a crucial point in the journey. While the standard Route 21 heads to Westward Ho!, the 21A peels off here, winding down narrow roads toward the estuary mouth.
Appledore: A maritime gem
The route terminates in Appledore, arguably one of Devon’s prettiest villages. The bus drops you moments away from cobbled lanes, art galleries, and the slipway. It is the perfect end to the line—peaceful, artistic, and thoroughly charming.
When does the route run?
The North Devon Wave network is designed for convenience.
- Daily Service: The route runs 7 days a week, making it reliable for weekend explorers.
- Frequency: The main trunk of the route (Barnstaple to Northam) is served by both the 21 and 21A, meaning buses appear very frequently—often every 15 to 20 minutes during the day.
- The 21A Leg: If you are going all the way to Appledore, the 21A specifically usually runs hourly. It is worth checking the timetable before you travel so you don’t have to wait at the Northam split.
Service frequency and connections
Because Barnstaple is a major transport hub, the 21A connects effortlessly with other services. You can arrive by train on the Tarka Line from Exeter and catch the Wave 21A from the railway station (or a short walk to the bus station) to continue your journey to the coast.
Value for money
Bus travel in North Devon is currently exceptional value.
- Fare Cap: At the time of writing, the “Get Around for £2” single fare cap is active across England. This means you can travel the entire length of the route for just £2.
- DayRider Tickets: If you plan to hop on and off (perhaps stopping at Instow for lunch and Bideford for shopping), a Stagecoach North Devon DayRider is often the best choice. It allows unlimited travel on the Wave network for the whole day.
- Group Tickets: Travelling with family or friends? Look for the Group DayRider, which offers significant savings for up to five people travelling together.
Top tips for the journey
- Sit on the right: When travelling from Barnstaple towards Appledore, try to get a seat on the right-hand side of the bus (upstairs is best). This gives you the best views of the estuary and the water. If you are returning to Barnstaple, sit on the left.
- Check the destination screen: All “Wave” buses look similar. Ensure the front of the bus says 21A Appledore. If it says “21 Westward Ho!”, you will end up near the beach, but a long walk from Appledore’s quay!
- Timing the tides: The view changes dramatically with the tide. High tide fills the estuary with shimmering water; low tide reveals vast, moody mudflats teeming with birds. Both are beautiful, but they offer very different vibes.
Planning a day out on this route
Here is a perfect itinerary for a “21A Day Out”:
- 09:30: Start in Barnstaple with a browse of the Pannier Market.
- 10:30: Board the 21A. Enjoy the high-up views as you travel through Fremington.
- 11:00: Hop off at Instow. Walk along the sands, grab a coffee at the boathouse, and look across the water to see where you are heading next.
- 12:30: Catch the next 21A to Appledore.
- 13:00: Lunch in Appledore. There are incredible fish and chip shops and pubs along the quay.
- 14:30: Explore the winding streets of Appledore, visiting the maritime museum or the independent craft shops.
- 16:00: Catch the bus back. If you have energy left, stop in Bideford to walk across the Long Bridge before heading back to Barnstaple.
Year-round appeal
While summer brings the sunshine and ice creams, the 21A is a fantastic winter route too. On a stormy day, the estuary looks dramatic and wild. You can sit warm and dry on the top deck, watching the weather roll in over the Atlantic, before jumping off into a cosy pub in Appledore for a hot chocolate by a fire.
So, next time you are in North Devon, leave the car keys behind. Catch the Wave, climb to the top deck, and let the 21A show you the coast from a whole new perspective.
