While the Lake District often steals the headlines, those in the know head east. The 563 bus route, operated by Stagecoach, offers a gateway into the lush, rolling landscapes of the Eden Valley. This isn’t just a commute; it is a voyage through history, connecting ancient market towns, castle ruins, and some of the most tranquil countryside in England.
Running from the bustling hub of Penrith down to the charming streets of Kirkby Stephen, the 563 serves as a vital lifeline for locals and a perfect “slow travel” experience for visitors. If you want to swap the crowds of Windermere for the authentic, quieter side of Cumbrian life, this is the bus to catch.
What makes this route special
The 563 is effectively a tour of “Westmorland,” the historic county name that still evokes a sense of identity here. The route largely follows the path of the River Eden and the shadow of the North Pennines—an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
Unlike the dramatic, craggy peaks of the central Lakes, the scenery here is pastoral and sweeping. You are travelling through red sandstone villages, past rich farmland, and along the spine of the Pennines. It is a route for history buffs; you can arguably spot more castles and peel towers on this single hour-long journey than almost anywhere else in the region.
Exploring the route: key locations
The journey begins in Penrith, a market town rich in character. Before you board, you might explore the castle ruins or the quirky yards and alleyways filled with independent shops.
As the bus leaves Penrith, you almost immediately hit history at Brougham. Keep your eyes peeled for the majestic Brougham Castle sitting by the riverbank. It is a spectacular site that sets the tone for the journey.
Heading south-east, the bus winds through classic Cumbrian villages. You will pass Winderwath and the “Queen of Westmorland villages,” Temple Sowerby. This area is characterised by red sandstone buildings and perfectly manicured village greens.
As you continue through Kirkby Thore, the views of the Pennine ridge to your left become prominent. The route then dips towards Long Marton before arriving at a major highlight: Appleby-in-Westmorland.
Appleby is a must-visit. The river Eden loops around the town, with the castle standing guard at the top of the hill. It is the perfect place to hop off for lunch or a riverside walk.
Continuing the journey, the bus serves Warcop and moves on to Brough. Brough Castle (the sheer number of fortifications on this route is staggering) dominates the skyline here, built within the earthworks of a Roman fort.
Passing through Brough Sowerby and Kaber, you eventually reach the final stretch into Kirkby Stephen. This town is a “Walkers are Welcome” destination, boasting narrow, winding streets and a friendly atmosphere. The route data also notes Easgill Head, marking the deep rural connectivity this service provides.
When does the route run
It is important to check the timetable before you travel, as the 563 is a rural service rather than a high-frequency city hopper.
Generally, the service operates Monday to Friday, with several return journeys spaced throughout the day to accommodate commuters, shoppers, and students. In recent times, thanks to funding initiatives to support rural connectivity, weekend services (particularly Saturdays) have been trialled or implemented, and the route sometimes extends further toward Sedbergh and Kendal on specific days.
Because this is a vital community link, the times are designed to be practical, but for a tourist, it requires a little planning. You can’t just turn up and expect a bus in 10 minutes, but the reliability of the schedule makes it easy to plan a day around.
Service frequency and connections
The frequency is typically every few hours. While this sounds sparse to city dwellers, it is actually perfect for a day trip. You can catch a morning bus from Penrith to Appleby, spend three hours exploring, and catch the next one onward to Kirkby Stephen.
A major advantage of the 563 is its rail connectivity.
- Penrith: Connects with the West Coast Main Line (trains from London, Glasgow, Manchester).
- Appleby & Kirkby Stephen: Both towns have stations on the world-famous Settle-Carlisle Railway. This allows for fantastic “rail and ride” circular trips.
Value for money
Bus travel in Cumbria offers exceptional value, especially with current national fare cap schemes. For a single journey (e.g., Penrith to Kirkby Stephen), the cost is significantly cheaper than fuel and parking.
If you are exploring for the whole day, consider a Stagecoach “Explorer” ticket. This allows unlimited travel on Stagecoach buses throughout Cumbria and North Lancashire. It is the most stress-free way to travel; you can hop on and off the 563 and even switch to other buses in Penrith or Kirkby Stephen without digging for change every time.
Planning a day out on this route
Here is a suggested itinerary for a culture-filled Saturday or weekday:
- Start in Penrith: Grab a coffee and browse the shops.
- Bus to Appleby: Board the 563 mid-morning. Enjoy the views of the Pennines from the left-hand side of the bus.
- Lunch in Appleby: Alight at Appleby-in-Westmorland. Walk up Boroughgate to see the castle exterior and visit the almshouses. Have lunch at a local bakery.
- Onward to Kirkby Stephen: Hop back on the 563.
- Explore Kirkby Stephen: Visit the parish church, known as the “Cathedral of the Dales,” and see the Loki Stone (a rare Viking artifact).
- The Return: You can either take the bus back or, for a treat, walk up to Kirkby Stephen station (a bit of a walk from town) and take the spectacular train ride back to Appleby or Carlisle, looping back to Penrith.
Top tips for the journey
- Sit on the left: When travelling from Penrith towards Kirkby Stephen, the left-hand side offers the best views of the North Pennines escarpment, known as Cross Fell.
- Check the return times: Since the last bus might be in the late afternoon, ensure you know exactly when you need to be at the stop.
- Hail and Ride: In some of the more rural sections between designated stops (like near Winderwath or Kaber), the bus may operate on a “hail and ride” basis where safe. If you are waiting at a quiet roadside, make sure you signal clearly to the driver.
- Combine with walking: The route parallels several long-distance walking paths. You could take the bus to Appleby and walk a section of the Pennine Way or the Westmorland Way, then catch the bus back from a different stop.
The 563 isn’t just a way to get from A to B; it’s an invitation to slow down and see a part of England that has remained blissfully unchanged for decades.
