If you are looking for a journey that packs a surprising amount of punch—scenery, history, and pure driving skill—into a mere 25 minutes, look no further than the Stagecoach 158.
While many visitors to the Peak District flock to the main trunk roads, the real magic often happens on the narrow lanes that climb the valley sides. The 158 is a lifeline for the locals, but for the visitor, it is a hidden gem of a route that connects the bustling county town of Matlock with the sleepy, historic village of Bonsall. It’s a short, sharp injection of the Derbyshire Dales character: steep hills, stunning limestone gorges, and villages that seem to defy gravity.
Here is why you should hop on board this fantastic little route.
What makes this route special
The 158 isn’t your average city commute. This route tackles the dramatic topography of the Derwent Valley head-on. It serves as a bridge between the Victorian grandeur of Matlock and the gritty, authentic industrial heritage of Cromford, before whisking you up into the clouds (quite literally) to the ancient lead-mining village of Bonsall.
Because the roads on this route are incredibly tight and winding—particularly the ascent through Starkholmes—the service is usually operated by smaller, nimble buses. Watching your driver navigate the stone-walled lanes with millimetric precision is part of the fun. It feels less like public transport and more like a private tour of the hidden Dales.
A journey through the clouds and valleys
The route begins at the interchange in Matlock. Matlock is the perfect starting point, with its Victorian spa town architecture and the commanding view of Riber Castle watching over you. Before you board, grab a coffee in town and admire the view of Pic Tor—it’s a teaser of the hills you are about to conquer.
Leaving the station, the bus heads towards Matlock Green. This was historically the heart of the original hamlet before the bridge was built, and it retains a charming, village-like feel with its cluster of stone cottages and the Red Lion pub.
Then, the adventure begins. The bus leaves the valley floor and begins the steep climb up to Starkholmes. As the engine hums and lifts you higher, look out of the windows on the left-hand side. You will be treated to spectacular, elevated views across the gorge towards High Tor and Matlock Bath. Starkholmes itself is a linear village clinging to the hillside, offering a perspective on the Derwent Valley that most tourists in cars completely miss.
What goes up must come down. The bus descends sharply into the historic village of Cromford. This is hallowed ground for history buffs; it is the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution. The bus drops you right near the action, moments away from Sir Richard Arkwright’s world-famous mills. The contrast between the green hills of Starkholmes and the red-brick industrial might of Cromford is striking.
Finally, the 158 tackles the “Via Gellia” (or the winding lanes off it) to climb up to Bonsall. Bonsall is a place of myths, lead mines, and quirks. Famous for its Hen Racing Championships and UFO sightings, it is a village with a distinct personality. The bus terminates here, high above the valley, surrounded by rolling pastures and dry stone walls.
When does the route run?
The Stagecoach 158 is a reliable service, but it is built for locals, so it doesn’t run late into the night.
- Monday to Saturday: The service generally runs every two hours during the daytime.
- Timings: Buses usually depart Matlock starting mid-morning (around 10:30) with the last return trip from Bonsall in the late afternoon (around 18:00).
- Sundays and Bank Holidays: There is typically no service on the 158 on Sundays, so save this adventure for a weekday or Saturday.
Note: Always check the latest Stagecoach Yorkshire timetable before you travel, as times can change seasonally.
Tickets and value for money
One of the best things about bus travel in England right now is the value.
- £3 Fare Cap: Throughout 2025, single fares are capped at just £3. This makes a return trip to Bonsall incredibly affordable.
- Derbyshire Wayfarer: If you plan to connect with other buses (like the X17 to Sheffield or the 6.1 to Bakewell), consider the Derbyshire Wayfarer ticket. It offers unlimited travel on almost all buses in Derbyshire for a whole day.
Top tips for the journey
- Sit on the left: When leaving Matlock towards Bonsall, try to grab a seat on the left-hand side of the bus. This gives you the best views of the Derwent Valley drop-off as you climb through Starkholmes.
- Hold on tight: The roads are twisty! It’s a smooth ride, but the corners in Starkholmes and Bonsall are sharp.
- Check the return: Since the bus runs every two hours, make sure you know exactly when your return bus leaves Bonsall. You don’t want to be stranded (though the local pubs are very welcoming if you are!).
Planning a day out on the 158
Here is a suggested itinerary for a perfect Saturday:
- 10:30 AM – Depart Matlock: Board the 158 at Matlock Interchange. Enjoy the climb up Starkholmes.
- 10:50 AM – Arrive in Cromford: Hop off early at Cromford Market Place. Spend an hour exploring Cromford Mills and the canal wharf. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site and absolutely free to wander the yard. Grab a quick cake at the mill café.
- 12:50 PM – Re-board for Bonsall: Catch the next 158 heading upwards.
- 1:00 PM – Lunch in Bonsall: Get off at the Fountain or the Cross in Bonsall. Walk up to the Barley Mow or the Kings Head for a hearty pub lunch. Bonsall is famous for its walking routes, so you could take a short hike up onto the limestone plateau for 360-degree views.
- 3:00 PM or 5:00 PM – Return: Catch the bus back down the hill to Matlock, watching the sunset over the Riber Castle hill if you catch the later service.
The Stagecoach 158 might be a short route, but it punches well above its weight for scenery and character. It’s the perfect way to see the “real” Derbyshire without worrying about parking on narrow country lanes.
