If you’re looking to swap the fast pace of the train for a front-row seat to Devon’s rolling countryside, the 5B is your ticket to a proper adventure. Connecting the cathedral city of Exeter with the historic market town of Barnstaple, this route doesn’t just get you from A to B—it stitches together the red earth of the mid-Devon hills, the dramatic Torridge Valley, and the golden estuaries of the north coast.
Operated by Stagecoach South West, the 5B is a lifeline for the rural villages in between, but for the leisure traveller, it’s a two-and-a-half-hour moving postcard. Whether you’re a local exploring your own backyard or a visitor wanting to see the “real” Devon, this route offers a leisurely pace that lets you soak it all in.
What makes this route special
While the train line from Exeter to Barnstaple (the Tarka Line) is famous for its river views, the 5B bus takes the high road. It climbs out of the Exe Valley and traverses the agricultural heartland of the county. You aren’t just looking at the landscape; you’re travelling through it.
The journey feels like three trips in one. First, you have the bustle of Exeter and the historic charm of Crediton. Then, you enter the deep countryside—a land of thatched cottages, winding lanes, and the quiet villages of North Tawton and Winkleigh. Finally, the route transforms again as it hits the coast, offering sweeping views of the Torridge Estuary at Bideford and Instow. It’s this variety that makes the 5B a hidden gem for scenic travel enthusiasts.
A route breakdown of key locations
Leaving the city behind
The journey begins at Exeter Bus Station. As you head out of the city past Duryard, the urban sprawl quickly gives way to the green hills of the Exe Valley. The first major stop is Newton St Cyres, a village known for its arboretum and classic Devonshire feel.
The Red Earth Country
Next up is Crediton. As you roll into the town, keep an eye out for the magnificent parish church of the Holy Cross, a cathedral-like structure that dominates the skyline. The bus weaves through the high street, often buzzing with local life, before heading further west through Copplestone—look out for the ancient granite cross in the village centre.
Deep Devon
Beyond Bow, you’re in true farming country. The bus climbs towards Winkleigh, a village once famous for having the best example of a motte-and-bailey castle in Devon (though now overgrown). The views here can be spectacular on a clear day, stretching across to Dartmoor in the south. The route winds through Dolton and Beaford, offering a glimpse of rural life that feels miles away from the busy coast.
Torrington and the river
A highlight for many is the approach to Great Torrington. This town is perched high on a cliff overlooking the River Torridge. The bus stops near the town centre, but notably, it also serves the area near RHS Garden Rosemoor (at Little Torrington), one of the South West’s most beautiful gardens.
The Estuary run
After descending from Torrington via Landcross, you arrive in Bideford. The bus often crosses the historic Long Bridge, giving you fantastic views up and down the river. From here, the character of the journey changes completely. You’re now hugging the estuary, passing Westleigh and the glorious waterfront at Instow. On a sunny day, the view across to Appledore is stunning.
The final leg takes you through Yelland, Fremington, and Bickington before arriving at Barnstaple Bus Station, right on the Strand.
Service frequency and connections
The 5B is a long-distance rural service, so it doesn’t run as frequently as inner-city buses. Generally, you can expect a bus roughly every two hours from Monday to Saturday. Sunday services are more limited or sometimes non-existent depending on the season, so always check the latest timetable before you travel.
The total journey time from Exeter to Barnstaple is approximately 2 hours and 40 minutes. It’s a commitment, but the changing scenery makes the time fly.
At Exeter, you can connect to national rail services or local buses to the Jurassic Coast. At Barnstaple, the 5B terminates at the Bus Station, where you can easily hop onto the frequent Route 21 to explore the golden surfing beaches of Braunton, Croyde, and Ilfracombe.
Value for money
For a journey of this length, a single ticket is reasonable, but the best value usually comes from a Stagecoach DayRider or Explorer ticket.
- DayRider Gold / Explorer: If you plan to return the same day or want to jump on connecting buses (like the 21 to the beach), this is your best bet. It covers the vast majority of the Stagecoach South West network.
- Group tickets: If you are travelling with family or friends, ask the driver for a group day ticket—it’s significantly cheaper than buying individual passes.
Top tips for the journey
- Sit upstairs: The 5B is often operated by double-decker buses (sometimes the premium ‘Gold’ spec, though this varies). To see over the high Devon hedges and get the best views of the estuaries, the top deck front seat is the place to be.
- Break the journey: Two and a half hours is a long time to sit. Consider stopping for lunch in Great Torrington or an ice cream on the beach at Instow.
- Check the direction: The bus has detailed destination blinds. Ensure you are getting on the 5B via Winkleigh and Torrington, as the 5 and 5A cover different parts of the initial route near Crediton and Okehampton.
Planning a day out on this route
A fantastic itinerary for a day out involves mixing the bus with a bit of walking:
- Morning: Catch an early 5B from Exeter to Great Torrington. Spend the morning exploring the Cavalier history of the town or visiting the Dartington Crystal factory.
- Lunch: Hop back on the bus towards Bideford. Grab some fish and chips on the quay.
- Afternoon: Take the bus a short hop to Instow. Walk along the sandy beach or enjoy a drink at one of the waterfront pubs looking out over the boats.
- Evening: Continue to Barnstaple for a wander around the Pannier Market (if it’s a market day) before catching the train (Tarka Line) back to Exeter for a faster, river-level return journey to complete a loop of Devon.
Year-round appeal
While the coastal sections sparkle in the summer sun, the 5B is a genuine year-round service. In autumn, the wooded valleys near Torrington turn a spectacular orange and gold. In winter, the bus offers a warm, dry vantage point to watch the dramatic weather roll in off the Atlantic over the Taw and Torridge estuaries. Just remember that daylight fades early in winter, so start your journey in the morning to make the most of the views!
